
The Rosacea Resource
I've Had Rosacea For 18 Years
Every Ingredient You Need To Know
After 30 years as an esthetician and beauty product formulator (and dealing with my own red face moments), here's what I find actually works for rosacea-prone skin.
Keep in mind that your mileage may vary, as everyone's skin is different.
Good Ingredients For Rosacea: Your skin's BFFs
These ingredients are gentle and soothing for rosacea-prone skin. Adding them to your routine can help calm inflammation and support your skin’s natural barrier.
1. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
- Benefits: Strengthens the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, and minimizes redness.
- Other Names: Nicotinamide.
2. Hyaluronic Acid
- Benefits: Provides hydration, plumps skin, and prevents dryness without clogging pores.
- Other Names: Sodium hyaluronate.
3. Ceramides
- Benefits: Restores the skin’s natural barrier and locks in moisture.
- Other Names: Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP.
4. Azelaic Acid
- Benefits: Reduces redness, inflammation, and acne-related symptoms.
- Other Names: Azelaic acid (no common aliases).
5. Green Tea Extract
- Benefits: Soothes irritation and protects skin with antioxidants.
- Other Names: Camellia sinensis leaf extract.
6. Rose Damascena Water (Rose Water)
- Benefits: A natural botanical known for its anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties. It soothes irritation, reduces redness, and provides a calming effect on sensitive skin.
- Other Names: Rosa damascena flower water, rose hydrosol.
- How It’s Used: Often found in toners, facial mists, and creams.
Gentle "Anti-Aging" Actives
While we dislike the term "anti-aging," we recognize it's what most people search for when seeking skincare after 40.
Adding "anti-aging" ingredients to a rosacea-friendly routine requires caution.
While some are gentle, others can worsen redness and irritation.
"Anti-Aging" Ingredients to Try
1. Bakuchiol
- Benefits: A plant-based alternative to retinol that reduces fine lines without irritation.
- Other Names: Psoralea corylifolia extract.
- When to Use: If you want a gentler option for addressing signs of aging. However, I personally can't use this ingredient, so your mileage may vary. Be sure to patch test.
2. Peptides
- Benefits: Boost collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and improve elasticity.
- Other Names: Palmitoyl pentapeptide, matrixyl. See below for a full list.
- When to Use: Ideal for those seeking "anti-aging" benefits without compromising skin sensitivity.
Signal Peptides
• Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl)
• Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
• Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide
• Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Carrier Peptides
• Copper Peptides
• GHK-Cu (Copper Tripeptide-1)
Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides
• Soybean Peptides
• Rice-derived Peptides
Neurotransmitter Peptides
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline)
• Pentapeptide-18
Other Gentle Peptides
• Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
• Hexapeptide-10
• Oligopeptide-68
• Tripeptide
• Dipeptide
• Tetrapeptide
3. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
- Benefits: In addition to soothing properties, it also promotes collagen production and reduces the appearance of fine lines.
- When to Use: Incorporate gradually into your routine as a multi-benefit ingredient.
Ingredients to Avoid If You Have Rosacea
1. Retinoids (Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Tretinoin)
- Impact: Can cause peeling, dryness, and increased sensitivity, often exacerbating rosacea symptoms.
- Other Names: Retinol, retinal, retinoic acid.
- When to Use: Only under dermatologist supervision and start with the lowest concentration.
2. AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids like Glycolic Acid)
- Impact: Strong exfoliation can irritate sensitive skin and worsen redness.
- Other Names: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid.
- When to Use: Avoid or opt for a milder AHA like mandelic acid at low concentrations.
3. BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids like Salicylic Acid)
- Impact: Can overly dry the skin and exacerbate irritation.
- Other Names: Salicylic acid.
- When to Use: Avoid for regular use but consult a dermatologist if targeting clogged pores.
4. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
- Impact: High concentrations can irritate rosacea-prone skin.
- Other Names: L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
- When to Use: Try a lower concentration (5% or less) or derivatives like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate if irritation occurs. 5% is still effective without the high levels of vitamin C.O
Ingredients to Avoid When You Have Rosacea
These ingredients are known to irritate rosacea-prone skin, trigger redness, or cause stinging sensations.
1. Simple Alcohols
- Impact: Drying and irritating to the skin.
- Other Names: Alcohol denat., ethanol, isopropyl alcohol.
2. Fragrance
- Impact: Synthetic and natural fragrances can irritate sensitive skin.
- Other Names: Fragrance, parfum, essential oils (e.g., lavender, citrus oils).
3. Menthol and Peppermint
- Impact: Causes stinging or a burning sensation.
- Other Names: Menthol, mentha piperita, peppermint extract.
4. Witch Hazel
- Impact: Harsh and drying for rosacea-prone skin.
- Other Names: Hamamelis virginiana extract.
5. Eucalyptus Oil
- Impact: Irritates sensitive skin and may worsen flare-ups.
- Other Names: Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil.
Quick Guide to Alcohols: Fatty vs. Simple
Not all alcohols are bad! Fatty alcohols can help moisturize the skin, while simple alcohols dry it out.
- Fatty Alcohols (Good): Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol.
- Simple Alcohols (Bad): Alcohol denat., ethanol.
Use Botanicals with Caution
Some plant-based ingredients seem gentle but can irritate rosacea-prone skin.
- Tea Tree Oil: May cause allergic reactions.
- Lavender Oil: Can trigger sensitivity.
- Citrus Oils (Lemon, Orange): Increase photosensitivity.
- Peppermint Oil: Leads to stinging and redness.
- Eucalyptus Oil: Known to be harsh for sensitive skin.
Pro Tips for Rosacea-Friendly Skincare
- Patch Test First: Apply a small amount of new products to your jawline or wrist before using them on your face.
- Simplify Your Routine: Use fewer products to minimize irritation risks.
- Look for Certifications: Products with the National Rosacea Society Seal of Acceptance are a safer bet.
- Avoid Hot Water: Cleanse with lukewarm water to prevent triggering redness.
Rosacea Friendly Skincare
FACT CHECK AND UPDATED SCIENTIFIC INFORMATION (WITH REFERENCES)
- National Rosacea Society
Website: https://www.rosacea.org - American Academy of Dermatology (AAD)
Website: https://www.aad.org - PubMed (National Library of Medicine)
Website: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov - Dermatology Times
Website: https://www.dermatologytimes.com - Mayo Clinic
Website: https://www.mayoclinic.org - Skincare Ingredient Labels (INCI Database)
Website: https://www.personalcarecouncil.org - Harvard Health Blog
Website: https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog