Covering rosacea can be tough! Today I’m bringing you my tips and tricks for covering breakouts and rosacea to get you ready for the camera.
Transcript Of How To Cover Rosacea For Women Over 40
Good morning, it’s your Momma Kitten. My name is Sonia Roselli, welcome to Glossible! And today I am going to teach you, my ageless beauties, how to fix your face when you're having a breakout!
So I have a bunch of Zoom calls today, and I have to look camera-ready. And I was like “Oh my God! So I want to show you that, yes, professional makeup artists have challenges, too.
So I sat out yesterday on my back patio, and someone was cutting the grass, and yes, I'm highly allergic to grass. No, not that kind of grass…that kind of grass I'm okay with!
But, look at what happened like my whole face is just crazy broke out. So I was like, “All right, well I think today might be a great day to show you how to have to fix these little challenging problems.”
Now the other thing, too, is I've not been taking very good care of myself. I don't pretend to have a perfect life, and I know you don't have a perfect life. And I am pretty consistent with drinking water but, I'm not gonna lie, this pandemic has me a little twisted. And I haven't been drinking the water that I need to. And if you look at my face, it's super dehydrated. I can just tell. I mean even my fingers are kind of pruney so I need to up my water.
My point to all of this is, as a professional makeup artist, we want to look at the skin and decide what the skin needs. Our skin needs different things every single day. And we could talk all day about that. But my point is, there might be times that you use things, there might be times that you add things, leave things out.
So for me, you know, for those of you that know me, you know I have a full skin prep line. And one of our hero products is sexApeel. But today is not a day that I would use sexApeel. My skin is inflamed. It's irritated.
However, I am going to use sexApeel up here. Actually I already did, I used sexApeel up here because I was flaking a lot on my forehead. And so I spot treated. And here's the thing, it's perfectly okay to do that — give your skin what it needs when it needs it. Alter it each and every day.
Now, the other thing for my ageless beauties out here, is that one of the problems that we have is that when our skin is like this, we need to add more opacity to the skin to cover it up. Right?
But what is the challenge in that the challenge is that when we add all of this opacity to our face, that it tends to show fine lines and wrinkles, and it just makes us look older. And I don't know. So, you have a double edged sword here. Do I let all this redness show through, or do I accentuate my fine lines and wrinkles? Today I'm going to show you how to fix that.
So, as you know, I already sexApeeled my face. I'm going to add a little Water Elixir to my skin. And Water Elixir really is fantastic because it helps with the redness, it helps calm the redness down. It's full of nanoceramides so that it really helps rebuild the skin layer. So I'm going to add a few pumps of Water Elixir to my skin.
When we are prepping our skin, we want to make sure that we have the skin super hydrated. Now I'm touch sensitive. And if you are having a flare up or a breakout, if you have rosacea, or if you tend to get things like this as well, feel free just to kind of tap it in. I'm making baby, baby “kitten punches” here, just because it's already inflamed.
Now Water Elixir is injecting a ton of hydration into the skin. And it's getting the skin ready to take in all of the other moisturizers. I'm going to add a little lubrication to the skin as well. The other thing that you might want to consider when you're having a flare up is watch chemical fragrances in products, because that tends to really irritate the skin.
I'm about to use our Water Oil, and Water Oil is fragrance free, and all of our products are just made with rose water — not rose oil — rose water, so the scent, as my friend Bridgit likes to say, it's a rose smell, but it doesn't smell like grandma's friends at church. So anyway, it's a very soft rose fragrance, and it's just made of the water, not the oil, which tends to be less irritating.
So now I'm going to add a little lube to my face, because we all need a little lube, because remember I'm really parched and dehydrated and dry. So I usually use one or two pumps, but today I am going to add maybe four pumps, but I'm not probably not going to use it all. But I'm just going to press it into the skin.
I love facial oils. And if you have a facial oil that you love, use that. And if you haven't tried adding Water Elixir to a facial oil, oh, you don't know what you're missing! That stuff is so good. All right, so I have this, kind of add a little bit here to the neck as well.
Now, this is the time that I would add Water Balm. However, I need more, because my face is really feeling it. So, I know this is probably top secret, but I'm going to be using a new product we're launching — or hoping we're launching this year. It is another moisturizer that is heavier than Water Balm is. It is a super rich moisturizer. As a matter of fact, I want to call it “Super Rich”.
So I’m adding just a little to my hand and I'm going to press it into the skin. And what this does is it just adds just more hydration. Right now I need as much hydration as possible. I almost want my face to look and feel wet, but I don't want to create a film. So, this is a product that we're making in Japan. I love it, it feels so good. And it really helps the skin look beautiful.
It is a moisturizer. And you could use it more at night. But remember, let your skin know what it needs. I'm going to add a little here to my neck because we always want to remember the neck. So now that's looking pretty good. And now is the time that I want to add my Water Balm.
So you're thinking,”Why are you doing all these steps?” Well, you got to do all these steps because if you don't, the best way that I like to describe it is when your skin is super dehydrated and thirsty, if you put it on foundation, if you put on liquid foundation, or even a cream foundation, your skin is going to grab on to the water in that product and just suck it up. And it is going to look cakey and dry.
All this kind of stuff is something that we don't want and it's not going to give us a good result. So, that is why we add a ton of lubrication, a ton of hydration to mature skin. Because it really does help everything look better and lay better on the skin.
So I have my Water Balm. I'm just gonna press this in, everywhere. And I like to press it in everywhere because it has a little bit of makeup primer in it, and Water Balm is fantastic. It is probably our best selling product. It is a moisturizer, day cream, night cream, eye cream, and makeup primer all in one. It literally is like a blurring filter. I always laugh that we don't need Instagram filters, we have Water Balm!
All right, now that I have this kind of pat in. I'm going to rub it into the skin a little bit, and I'm also going to go under the eye here. And I'm going to go around the crow's feet. Who decided it was crow's feet? Go around the eye here. Go around here.
Now, because I'm so dehydrated, and I need a little extra, I'm taking a little bit of Water Balm on my finger. And I'm going around my fine lines, and I'm going a little bit more in those areas. Because Water Balm really does just plump everything up. I'm going to add a little bit through here. Anywhere that you want to plump something up, stipple a little Water Balm everywhere.
I can't believe I'm doing YouTube videos y'all. I said I'd never do them but, here we are in a pandemic and why not?!
You might want to go on to the nasolabial folds where we tend to get lines. I get Juvederm here so I don't have Deputy Dogs, oh my God if I didn't get Juvederm there y'all, I would have Deputy Dogs!
All right so now that that's done, I'm going to let this sit for a few minutes. I got a nice one there. So I'm gonna let this sit for about 10 minutes, and then we'll be back to do the complexion. Stay tuned!
Okay, so I've sat. I've had my coffee. I've let my skin marinate, that's what I call it, when the skin prep all sits in the skin, and let everything look nice and plump.
So I came back in, and I added a little bit more Water Balm to under my eye here. Not a lot. Just a little, because I needed a little bit more plumping action. And I'm going to add just a wee bit more to the top of my lids, because I'm going to do a little bit of cream shadow later, but for now we're just going to talk about complexion, and covering up the complexion when we're having a breakout.
So I'm adding a little bit of Water Balm to the top of my eyelids because it just smooths all of that because my eyelids are really dehydrated. Wow!
The other thing that you have to think, too, is you need to think about where you live. So I have a friend, Terry Crenshaw — if you're listening, holla. She lives in Arizona, and your climate and where you live really does dictate how you prep your skin as well. So if there's not a lot of humidity or dew point in the atmosphere, your skin can also feel it as well. So this is why I say let each day dictate what you put on your skin.
So now we're going to cover the redness. And as you see the Water Elixir, all these things my skin is a lot less inflamed. Even my nose looks a little less red. So that's the kind of the beauty of the Water Elixir. Water Elixir really does calm everything down. And I usually like to say about ten minutes is a good start.
I'm going to use this Tom Ford Foundation, this is the one that I'm having really good luck with lately. Because I have rosacea, I tend to have a really difficult time finding foundations that don't break me out like this. I mean, you should see some of my skin sometimes when I'm trying foundations. So this is the one that I'm using now.
I am going to be using this little Japanese brush that I have. But what I'm gonna do is I'm adding it to a palette, and I am kind of massaging this into the brush. And what we want to do, is we want to add foundation to the skin, but we want to go in super thin, thin layers.
Because what do we not want to do? We don't want to extend to accentuate the fine lines and wrinkles that we have in our skin. We want to cover the skin, but we want it to still look skin-like.
Now, a lot of people say, “Well, should I go in, should I spot treat it with concealer?”. Who the hell has time for all that? I don't know about you but I don't have time to do all that! I need to get in, and get out, and I know most of you are busy as well. So what we're going to do is we're going to stipple. And then we're going to build coverage.
So remember very, very thin, thin layers. Okay. Now I'm going to start here in the center of the face. And I'm just going to go really where I'm red. I'm really going to focus on those areas where I'm red. Not gonna worry about everything else, just yet. I want to focus right in through here.
You know one of the things that I've never understood with watching YouTube over the years, and this is not a dig — this is absolutely not a dig — it’s just I’ve just been a professional for a long time. I'm old school, right? I never understood why they put so much product on the skin.
No matter what the age, because to me, we're living creatures, right, we have blood under the skin. If we didn't, we would look like a corpse…we'd be dead. And so, I really still want to see the blood flow underneath my skin.
This is my friend Vivian Baker. If you don't know who she is, look her up. Her and I talk about this all the time, like why do people put so much opacity on the skin that it sucks all the life out! And then you end up having to put on so much other product on the skin to make yourself come alive. Why not build it up in very thin layers, but still let the skin show through?
So, now I'm kind of looking, I'm like, “All right, I can kind of see where it's evening out.” I'm going to do my nose in a second. But I'm making little punches, little “kitten punches”, and then going a little bit through here as well.
A lot of times we tend to get red here in the center of the face. So I'm looking, and I'm like, okay, but as you see, I mean, this is one pass. This is one, little, kitten punch pass. And it's looking skin-like.
Now, what I want to do is I want to take a look and I want to see how it looks. I'm adding a little bit more foundation to my palette. And I’m going to continue, and go on top of where I just was, and then I'm just going to feather it out through here, and as you see I got a little bit here. You want to make sure that you get as much as you can.
I'm using a magnifying mirror and ya'll know that I'm blind. And that's the other challenge too, right, is being blind and trying to do your foundation! I actually work with The Makeup Light, and I can't live without it. My Makeup Light, and my magnifying mirror.
So, I'm going through here and I'm adding a second layer, a second, thin, “kitten punch” layer. I think we should make a brush, call it “kitten punch brush”. All right.
I don't want to go too close to the eye with this foundation. This foundation actually has a chemical sunscreen in it. And you don't want to go too close to the eye because you'll get some burning, so right in through here is where you kind of want to stop. Besides, we're gonna do concealer there later.
Now, I got that and I'm like, okay, to me that looks pretty good. I want to put my glasses on. Have a look. And as you see I haven't really done my forehead yet, because my forehead doesn't need too much. So now I'm going to come through here, and just kind of stipple/kitten punch.
You’re like “What is on your brush?” This is how I know which brushes are my personal brushes, when I'm washing brushes sometimes. I want to make sure that I remember which brushes are my personal brushes, and not my pro brushes. That’s why I have them stickered.
So I'm gonna go a little bit over the nose here, but I'm going to talk about the nose here in just a second. Now I feel like I've gotten everything pretty evened out. As you see, I didn't do a lot of color correction. I didn't go through and do each spot.
I mean, I probably could, if I wanted to. If I was like, really, like maybe if I were going to be taking photos, maybe I would do that. But really with the little kitten punch method, you don't really need to, because these punches just do great.
Okay, so now I'm going to switch it up. I'm going to use a different brush. I like this flat, sable brush. You can use any kind of flat brush. Whatever I have left on my palette, I'm going to apply this to my brush.
Now, a lot of times I would put foundation on the skin and then dry brush it out, but because I'm trying to stipple this in, I do like to load the brush. It really just depends on what technique that I'm doing.
So as you see, I'm just kind of coming in through here. And I'm stippling this foundation, right on the nose. Now I guess you could use concealer, but I like to use the same foundation that I use on the skin, on my nose.
And a lot of times, I do this because our nose has curves and everything, and that's why sometimes it's hard to cover. But if you just kind of stipple it on, and I wish you could feel what I'm doing, but if you can tell, I'm just barely tapping it. And it really does help pull all that together.
Now here's the thing. I think we should have a conversation about expectations as people. You know, Instagram, YouTube, they all use a lot of filters on their face, they all look perfect. But our skin has texture to it. It has pores. It's a living breathing organ. Be kind to yourself. You want it to look as smooth as possible, but if it doesn't, don't beat yourself up about it, shit.
Okay, now I have all that kind of covered. Sometimes I'll spend a few minutes on my nose for sure, because my nose just can get really red. Now the other thing too is you want to look on the inside of your nose, just kind of go in on the inside there — not too much, just kind of going around here.
And then you want to step back and look. And that is how you get a good complexion, covering your rosacea, and get ready to look good for camera.
Now we're going to finish the rest of the face in another tutorial. But I hope that this helped you. It's super easy. You don't have to spend a lot of time. Now that you've got your complexion all cleaned up, looking good, and ready for everything else. You’re going to be great for camera!
So please subscribe to my channel if you want, and I will see you next time on Glossible! See you soon, bye!
Transcribed by https://otter.ai